The Closet Edit, No. 2: How to Build a Wardrobe

Several years ago, I read an article that asked hundreds of women in the fashion industry their ideal wardrobe size.  I’ve searched for the article several times, but I’ve never been able to locate it.  What I remember is that the author determined that the perfect wardrobe was 75 pieces.

To some of you, this will seem like a lot.  To others, not nearly enough.  But after years spent helping clients and friends clean out their closet, I find that most women have more than 75 pieces, primarily because they  never get rid of anything.  So what is my preferred ratio for building a functional wardrobe? (Not including shoes.)

Group No. 1. Own 10 special occasion or impractical pieces that you love.

These are your cocktail dresses, your leopard pants, and your studded leather jackets.  Make sure at least half of Group No. 1 are accent pieces that can lift other pieces in your wardrobe.

The philosophy here is that there should be fun in your wardrobe, but there has to be a limit to that fun.  So many times, I’ve walked into a woman’s closet and seen loads of expensive cocktail dresses, but few useful basics.  How does it end up this way?

We treat weddings and other special occasions with reverence.  We want to shine.  We want to look our best.  We want to impress people.  So we spend two-months clothing budget on one dress that will end up in the back of our closet.  It’s not practical…

Group No. 2. Two-thirds of your wardrobe, or 50 pieces, have to be wearable basics.

These are pieces that fit your body and your lifestyle.  The example I gave in the video is the MM. LaFleur Taylor dress.  I own it in four colors.  Why?  It’s figure flattering, can be dressed up or down, and layered under other pieces easily.  It’s also washable, and has pockets.  Cue the hallelujah chorus.

I’m working on another post about which basic pieces are staples in my fall wardrobe.  But I would also include my AG Farrah jeans, my striped Land’s End t-shirt, and my Helmut Lang drape jacket.  They’re the pieces that I know look good, fit well, and reflect my style.

To discover which pieces are your must-have basics, go to your closet, look at everything in there, and pull out the eight pieces you wear most often.  This is your wardrobe’s foundation.  If these piece don’t fit or function well, swap them out for one’s that do.

Group No. 3. 15 items should be on-trend, seasonal pieces.

Sometimes we just all need something new.  We feel like we’re wearing the same pieces all the time, and we need a boost.  This is where trendy, seasonal pieces come in.  Whether it’s the $20 blouse from Zara or the floral dress that you probably won’t wear next season, these are the pieces that keep your wardrobe feeling fresh.

When you buy these pieces, keep your basics in mind.  If you love a black, cashmere sweater, add a pair of berry-colored trousers and a plaid pencil skirt.  Don’t try to build new outfits solely out of trendy pieces, instead focus on what can give your basics more mileage.

To achieve a more specific wardrobe breakdown (five tops, 10 dresses, etc.), you need to think about what you specifically wear.  These groups are just to get you started thinking about functionality and style as two prongs of the same instrument.  They work together, but don’t let one overtake the other.

How do you break up your wardrobe?  Or if you’ve never thought about it, what are some mistakes you’ve made?

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